THE THINGS I DO…

I wrote this for the holiday edition of MyTime magazine. I thought I’d share my top ten list of photo tips for holiday shooting.

1. Turn off the red-eye reduction feature on your camera. Most image editing programs allow you to correct for red-eye, eliminating the need to use this irritating, battery draining, feature.
2. Get close to your subject. Fill the frame with the important, crop out everything else. Shoot like a pro!
3. Hold the camera steady. Most holiday happenings are indoors. Indoor lighting requires slower shutter speeds, increasing the chance of movement and blurred images.
4. Shoot a lot of photos. Your chances of getting a good shot will increase with the number of photos you make.
5. Make sure you have plenty of batteries and memory cards. Nothing’s worse than running out of juice or memory just when things are getting interesting.
6. Keep your camera close at hand. You never know when an interesting photo opportunity will happen — be ready for it.
7. Look for the candid moments instead of trying to pose everything. Don’t orchestrate your photos, go with the flow and shoot what happens in front of your lens.
8. Check your lens for fingerprints. With point-and-shoot cameras, you can’t see what the lens is seeing so you’ll need to check from occasionally to make sure your lens is smudge-free. A clean, microfiber cloth is the ticket for taking care of this chore.
9. When shooting children, work from their level. It’s amazing how this will improve your photos of the kiddies.
10. Share your moments with others. I especially recommend uploading your photos to a computer for use them as a holiday slide show for friends to view when visiting. Digital picture frames work well also.

I hope this list will help make your holiday photography successful.

Enjoy the season,

Dennis

A gorgeous cloud-filled sky gave me a reason to get outdoors and play around with over-saturating landscapes.

To get this particular effect, I used my circular polarizer to make the sky as blue as possible and then underexposed a stop-and-a-half to make sure I would have enough detail in the clouds. I shot this as a raw file, to make sure I would have a lot of flexibility in toning the clouds and to make the next part of the process easier. I opened this image in Lightroom 2 (have I ever told you how fantastic this program is?) and, after doing basic toning to bring out the maximum detail in the clouds, I bumped up the saturation of the blues and greens…a lot.

Once I had adjusted the color to match reality, I took the settings an additional 20 points to the right on the Lightroom saturation slider for these two colors to over-saturate things even more. The resulting over-saturated image is much more eye-catching than had I not used a polarizer and a little software “help” after the fact.

Go try it for yourself the next time you have a cloud-filled, beautiful sky. Don’t worry if you don’t have Lightroom 2, you can accomplish the same color tweaks using the Adobe Raw plug-in and Photoshop. Make your adjustments within Adobe Raw using the controls under the “HSL/grayscale” tab. Have fun learning this new technique!

I just gave a workshop about digital photography and there’s still some confusion out there about image file formats available in-camera. I hope this will help clear things up.

First, RAW format is simply the uncompressed (or very slightly compressed) 1s and 0s coming off your sensor chip. Nothing is modified and you have the greatest amount of post-shoot image control when you start with a RAW file.

The TIFF file can be uncompressed or compressed with a “lossless” (LZW) algorithm. A TIFF is smaller in file size than a RAW file of the same subject but still larger than a JPEG of the same subject.

A JPEG file can be saved lightly or heavily compressed. It is the format most commonly used on the Internet and is often the format used to deliver final images to clients. It can be opened by a wide variety of programs, including Internet browsers.

The one important thing to keep in mind about JPEG files is that, until they are opened and re-saved, their quality will NOT degrade. Image degradation in a JPEG only happens if you open a file and then save it during closing. No save, no image resampling. No image resampling, no quality degradation. A lot of people think that the simple process of opening the file causes a lowering of quality. That is not so — that happens during the process of saving/resampling.

Please share this info with your friends. The more you know about image file formats, the better. Incidentally, I didn’t know the info I just shared about JPEG files till about a year ago…and I had been working with JPEGs for years! Live and learn.

At a recent photo walk, one of the participants pulled me aside and expressed his frustration at not shooting lots of “keeper” images during group photo outings. He was visibly irritated with his performance (or lack of) and it was pretty obvious that he was not enjoying himself. Since the whole point of a photo walk is to enjoy yourself, I gave him some words of advice that kept me from chucking my gear in a bin years ago… take things one step at a time and always remember how far you’ve come, not how far you have to go. You see, digital photography can be both as simple or as complex as you want to make it. Be careful not to try too many things at once, especially when you’re learning the basics.

Someone once told me “there’ll always be greater and lesser people than you out there, the trick is to accept that fact and do your best with the tools at hand.” Applied to digital photography, it means set small goals for yourself at every step in your photo evolution. Goals such as “I’m going to use the manual exposure settings for half the photos I shoot today” or “I’m going to experiment with at least one HDR image” are easy to set and, once achieved, will give you a real sense of accomplishment. Stack one accomplishment onto another, then add another and you’ll soon see how much your skills are improving.

I set small “fun” goals for myself all the time. Last weekend, I hosted a photo walk and, knowing I would be tied up helping folks with their photography and making sure everyone was having a great time,  set only one goal for myself. I wanted to make one good photograph…something I could frame and hang on my wall. No stress, just one photo. After walking through the park for a couple hours, I missed several shots, let other possibilities pass me by for one reason or another. No pressure, I only needed one shot, right? As I was leaning on the railing, taking a break after the walk down to the swamp bridge, the shot I was looking for happened right in front of me. That’s when I shot this photo:

Knowing I had this shot “in the bag,” I relaxed a bit and focused my attentions (pun intended) on helping other photo walkers for the rest of the morning. I didn’t stop looking, mind you (see my previous post on why you don’t want to do that), but my main photographic goal for the day was accomplished. As I look at the framed photo over my Mac, I’ll always be reminded of the fun I had hosting this photo walk, thanks to setting my goals to “minimum” for the day. Remember, if photography stresses you out, you’re doing something wrong!

Q from Jamie: Which is a better purchase for my wide-angle zoom lens, a UV or a Skylight filter?
A: First, let’s look at the real reason you’re buying a filter. Is it for UV reduction or lens protection? If it’s for UV reduction and you’re using a digital camera, don’t bother. Today’s digital sensors aren’t nearly as sensitive to UV rays as film cameras were, so no reduction is necessary.

That leaves lens protection as the only real reason for using a clear filter. So, if you’re shooting in an area with a lot of stuff flying through the air (and I’ve blogged here before saying that’s the only reason for using any filter other than a polarizer, ND or ND-grad in front of your lens), spend the extra bucks to get the best UV filter you can afford. I recommend B+W or Hoya brands. Also, since you’re buying this filter for a wide-angle lens, be sure to look for the ones that are designed to be thinner to avoid the vignetting that happens when the filter is too thick and shows in the corners of your photos. Thanks Jamie, great question!